gavin smith




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Mortlach, 1998 Gordon & Macphail Exclusive (Scotland)
It may seem slightly self-indulgent to select as our Whisky of the Month a dram that can only be purchased in one shop in the world, but so impressive are the bottlings to date in Gordon & MacPhail’s Exclusive range that we really felt we had little choice. The single cask bottlings are only available in the Elgin distiller, bottler and retailer’s South Street premises, and the line up to date includes a Balblair, the best Dailuaine we have ever tasted, and most recently a 1998 Mortlach. Bottled in March, the first fill Sherry butt into which the Mortlach had been filled yielded 612 bottles of this idiosyncratic Speyside single malt, which lends itself so well to Sherry wood maturation. A huge Mortlach nose of fruity caramel, spent matches and tyres on warm Tarmac. Background earthiness. Full-bodied, with stewed fruits, gunpowder tea, dark chocolate and liquorice sticks. More overt Sherry notes and molasses with the addition of water. Very long and warming in the spicy finish. From Gordon & McPhail, 58-60 South Street, Elgin IV30 1JY, tel. + 44 (0) 1343 545110 – email: retail@gordonandmacphail.com 50.0% ABV, 70cl, £39.95, Gordon & Macphail.

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